The Rolex Submariner, a name synonymous with diving prowess and enduring style, boasts a rich history filled with iconic models. Among them, certain variations stand out for their rarity and desirability, commanding significant collector interest. This article focuses on a particularly intriguing example: the Rolex Submariner "Nero e Rosso," referencing primarily the reference 1680, known for its matte black dial and the distinctive red text on its markings. While a "Nero e Rosso" isn't an official Rolex designation, it aptly describes the aesthetic of specific 1680 models with their black dials and red details, making it a popular term among collectors.
The Rolex Submariner 1680 holds a special place in the brand's lineage. Introduced in 1966, it was the third generation of the Submariner and represented a significant evolution. Its predecessor, the reference 5513, was a robust and reliable tool watch, but the 1680 incorporated a crucial feature: the date function. This addition significantly enhanced the watch's practicality, making it even more appealing to both professional divers and everyday wearers. The inclusion of the date window, however, necessitated a slightly larger case diameter, moving from the 39mm of the 5513 to the 40mm of the 1680, further enhancing its presence on the wrist.
The matte black dial, a defining characteristic of many sought-after 1680 models, including those fitting the "Nero e Rosso" description, provides a stark contrast to the luminous hour markers and hands. This matte finish, often referred to as a "glossy" or "satin" finish depending on the light and the specific example, is subtly different from the later, more glossy black dials found on subsequent Submariner models. This subtle texture adds to the watch's vintage charm and contributes significantly to its collectibility. The difference is often only truly appreciated in person, under various light conditions.
The “Rosso” part of the “Nero e Rosso” moniker refers to the red text found on the dial. Specifically, this refers to the red “SUBMARINER” text directly under the Rolex crown logo, and sometimes the red "Date" text within the date window (though not always present on all 1680s). This red detailing adds a vibrant pop of color against the subdued black dial, further enhancing the watch's visual appeal. The variations in the color and font of the red text across different 1680 production runs contribute to the nuanced world of Submariner collecting. Some examples boast a richer, deeper red, while others have a slightly faded or lighter shade, reflecting the aging process and the subtle changes in manufacturing techniques over the years.
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